I knew our honeymoon was going to be rugged (c’mon, it’s me and Owen), though I did not expect to find myself wielding two cans of bear spray, my head on a swivel, waiting to fight off a charging grizzly. But let me start from the beginning.
Planning a trip to Denali National Park is a little intimidating. There are essentially no trails in the backcountry, you can’t drive your own car on the park roads, and there’s nowhere to buy food once you’re in the park. Needless to say, we procrastinated until the last minute to plan our honeymoon. The weeks leading up to our departure date were a whirlwind: we booked flights, trains, campgrounds, hotels; purchased essential gear (gaiters for me, stream crossing sandals for Owen); and carefully stocked up on provisions to last us for two weeks. We hit a small snag when Owen’s backpack was initially 60 pounds and mine was about 20 liters too small. After ditching anything that wasn’t absolutely essential, we were left with two enormous but acceptable bags.
As with any great adventure, ours did not start according to plan. We missed our connecting flight and our bags nearly did not make it to Anchorage. But thanks to some quick thinking flight attendants we arrived, bags in hand, just a few hours later than scheduled. With the first snag out of the way, we were eager for the next leg of our journey: the Denali Star Train. The ride was gorgeous: we passed through areas so remote that homesteaders flag down the train to travel into town for supplies. We even saw some views of the peak of Denali. After eight hours on the train, we finally made it to the park I'd been dreaming about for years.
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The Denali Star Train |
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Viewing car |
We camped near the park entrance for the next two nights, and our main objective was preparing for our backcountry trip. The most important part: securing a backcountry permit. Without any trails in the backcountry, the park is divided up into 87 units, most of which have a quota. I’d done a lot of research beforehand: some units require expert glacier travel skills, others are only accessible by bush plane, and still others “present the opportunity for trips that will test the abilities of even the most skilled backcountry traveler.” We were left with essentially a handful of units that would not kill us. Luckily, a few of those units had availability, and after filling out several forms, watching a series of videos, and essentially signing our lives away, we were given the coveted permit. With permit in hand, we attended to the next most important task: visiting the Denali sled dog kennels! The dogs don't just look cute, they also work hard. In the summer they train up, and in the winter they travel the park, blazing trails for winter visitors, checking on research equipment, and transporting supplies.
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In awe meeting a canine ranger |
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Planning out meals for the next two weeks |
The next morning, we boarded the first camper bus into the park, welcomed by our no-nonsense driver, Tom: “I’ll drive the bus, you look for wildlife.” I spotted the first “bear” of the bus ride, which turned out to be a moose! Over the next few hours, we traveled deeper into the park, and as the road turned from pavement to dirt, we saw even more wildlife: elk, grizzly bears, and even Dall sheep (found only in Alaska and western Canada). Finally, it was time to disembark. The starting point of our five-day backpacking trip was Eielson Visitor Center, which also gave us one last chance to take advantage of indoor plumbing. We spent a little longer than needed packing and repacking the contents of our bags until finally we could delay no longer and set off.
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Day one of our backpacking trip, still clean and dry |
The next five days were some of the wildest I’ve ever experienced. The challenges were abundant: river crossings, wet feet, steady rain, bushwhacking, routefinding, avoiding animals, scree fields. The rewards made it all worth it, though: views of Denali poking through the clouds, camping above the Muldrow Glacier, following a river drainage to its headwaters, walking barefoot on the tundra. Easily my favorite part was the wildlife. We saw bears, caribou, a red fox, a Dall sheep skull. At one point we were watching eight grizzly bears, half of which were cubs, lounge, play, and eat off in the distance. It was like something straight out of National Geographic.
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Hiking above the Muldrow Glacier |
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A typical misty Alaskan day |
One morning, we had just started packing up our tent when a backpacker traversing the gravel bar below us yelled up, there’s a bear approaching you! I yelled back, from which way? But his answer was incomprehensible, lost to the wind. We quickly devised a plan: Owen would pack everything up while I would stand guard, looking for the incoming bear. Armed with both cans of bear spray, I watched for the bear as if my life depended on it. Finally I spotted him, he got a bit closer, we yelled, looked big, waved trekking poles, and he backed away. We were totally fine. And that was our experience with all of the grizzlies that we observed: they were more interested in eating berries and digging up ground squirrels than investigating us, and we were able to peacefully share the land.
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Patiently waiting to see where a grizzly bear was headed |
There are a lot of rules for backpackers: camp at least a mile from the park road, don't hike in a line, cook 100 yards from camp... We tried our best to follow everything, but when we finished our backpacking trip at the Eielson Visitor Center with a park ranger waiting for us, I assumed we were about to get chastised for doing something wrong. And then I saw the “Trails closed” sign. Turns out that recently a hiker had violated the park's most basic rule: don't give your food to wildlife. Apparently a bear had approached and he dropped his pack, allowing the cub to feast on all his snacks. The scary part is that now, the cub will associate humans with food for the rest of his life and may try to approach more people for some easy grub. As a result, the park closed all the trails and backcountry units nearby, including our units, though we had no idea since they had no way to contact us.
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Trails closed: news to us! |
With a sigh of relief that we weren’t going to be arrested, we grabbed our cached food and caught the next bus heading deeper into the park, to Wonder Lake Campground. Most of the passengers were cruise-shippers that had been on the bus for hours and were drifting off to sleep. We stood out with our big packs, hiking boots, and dirty clothes, and the ones that were still awake were intrigued with us. Owen attracted quite the crowd as he fielded questions about where we slept, what we ate, what animals we saw. It was a worthwhile conversation, as we learned there was a good chance of seeing the northern lights the next few nights!
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Wildlife viewing from the bus |
Our campsite at Wonder Lake Campground was the one thing we booked months in advance, and I had been eagerly anticipating our stay there. For one, it’s deep in the park, a six hour bus ride from the entrance. It’s also only 26 miles from Denali, and supposedly offers spectacular views of the mountain on clear days. Our three days at the campground certainly lived up to my expectations. The tundra was alive with fall colors: fiery reds, oranges, and purples. The weather was incredible and we saw the mountain every single day. We even saw the northern lights one night! What I wasn’t expecting, but enjoyed the most, were the characters of Wonder Lake- the friends we met during our stay. One lady had been coming to the park so often that she could “write a book about the showers and bathrooms of Denali." Another older couple shared stories from a lifetime of traveling, and reflected on how their experience in the outdoors is changing now that they’re older. A group of friends who meet up every Memorial Day weekend at Wonder Lake, told us of backcountry skiing in the Alaska Range just a few miles below the summit of Denali.
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Our campsite at Wonder Lake |
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Wandering off trail in the shadow of Denali |
Have you ever wanted to shower so badly that you would pay $1,000 to do so? After nine days of backpacking, camping, and wearing the same pair of pants, that’s the position we found ourselves in. Luckily, we had hotel reservations for a backcountry lodge just a couple miles down the road from Wonder Lake Campground. So we said goodbye to our friends, promised we’d let them use our shower if they made the trip out to our hotel, and hit the road to catch our ride. We were the youngest people at the lodge by about thirty years, and we were not their typical guests. We stuffed our faces at every meal, did not go on a single guided hike or tour, and drank with the employees. We bummed a razor and deodorant off the front desk, begged for the manager to let us do laundry, and commandeered the outdoor fireplace as our own. I never thought I’d spend $1,000 a night on a hotel, and I probably never will again, but it was absolutely perfect and worth every penny.
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We pulled ourselves off the couch once to go mountain biking |
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Our post for our stay at the lodge |
Many of you know that my family affectionately refers to Owen as “superman” for his uncanny ability to fix things and make things better. He’s brought back cars from the dead, fixed frozen pipes, and deep cleaned toxic college apartments. So you can imagine I wasn’t surprised when our bus heading to another campground after our stay from the lodge broke down, four hours from the nearest help, and Owen whispered “I think I know what’s wrong.” With my coaxing, he approached our bus driver and offered up some help. All I could do was watch from my seat, watch his freshly washed clothes get dirtier and dirtier as he pulled, shoved, and pounded something heavy. Not even twenty minutes later, our bus driver successfully turned the bus back on, and Owen got a standing ovation.
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Sow and two grizzly cubs |
After nearly two weeks in the park, we had seen it by bus, foot, and bike, and there was only one mode left: plane. We had no shame being the ultimate tourists on our flightseeing tour of the park. I was crammed in the very back of our little Turbo Beaver, right next to the emergency supplies and blankets. The upside was that I had both windows to myself, and I constantly looked left and right, mesmerized by the world of snow, ice, and rock that we were in. Eventually we landed at Denali base camp, where most mountaineers start their expeditions to the summit in early summer every year. We were there for less than half an hour, and I somehow managed to fill my boots with snow and numb my hands. I don’t know how people survive the climb.
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My perch in the back of the plane |
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The Alaska Range, in all its glory |
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Denali Upper Base Camp |
There is nothing more depressing than flying home after an incredible two weeks spent in the wilderness. $2,000 and two free first class tickets does soften the blow, though. Yes, you read that right. Our flight home was overbooked, and they were offering $1,000 each and a first class ticket if you got on a later flight. Owen and I practically shoved each other out of the way running up to the counter to volunteer. Gorging on free food and drinks in plush seats that we didn’t pay for was the perfect way to end our honeymoon.
Despite our lavish arrival home, the post-vacation blues hit me really hard when I went back to work, so much so that I took stock of my life and realized I needed to make a change. So, as of today, I am no longer working for San Mateo County. I start my new gig in (surprise) another local government agency: Santa Clara County, on November 18. Look for more stories on my adventures during my time off in a couple weeks!