Wednesday, August 17, 2016

A Place Called Bumpass Hell

I’m settling into life on the “better coast,” as some people call it… I still love you, New Jersey! But I can’t complain, life is pretty good here and Owen and I are slowly making this place feel like our home. I’m still going to the free yoga class at Santana Row every Saturday that we’re here. What I really love about yoga is how relaxing it is. Unfortunately, the lead-up to the classes I go to never seem relaxing… in Sumter I remember sprinting to class one week to make it in time. And last time I went here I set my alarm for PM instead of AM and woke up about 20 minutes before class started… mind you, it’s a 3 mile bike ride away. I rode like a bat out of hell and somehow made it in time. I’ve also still been going to the BLAST workout (strength training). Last class, we were doing two minutes of wall sits, which is hell on earth, as you can probably imagine. We were next to some bushes and I spotted a Blue Moon beer, which I pointed out to everyone around me to distract us. Well, over the course of the two minutes I found five more bottles hiding in the bushes (the full six pack!), and by the end of wall sits we were all singing 99 bottles of beer in the bushes. We’re also still loving Santana Row, the super fancy restaurant area near us. They host free concerts on Wednesdays this month so Owen and I checked it out last week. British guy in a jump suit, singing Police songs, what more could we ever want?

Free concert!
As some of you know, I’m training for a trail marathon, and while I have been logging long runs, none of them have been on trails yet. There aren’t any trail systems within running distance to me, which is why I’ve been putting it off. But last week I carefully crafted a scheme in which Owen would drop me and my bike off at a park on his way to work, I’d do the long trail run, then bike home. Last Thursday we executed the plan at Sanborn County Park, in the Santa Cruz Mountains about 9 miles away from us. Mistake number one: assuming the trail map is accurate. I came across a junction in a place there definitely wasn’t one on the map. I backtracked, tried to figure out with certainty where I was, and finally just chose one way to go, carefully marking the way back with breadcrumbs (actually an arrow made of sticks). Well, I ran for a few minutes then passed a downed tree across the trail that I had already passed before. I had gone in a big circle! It was pretty terrifying, and I ran all the way back down the mountain to the parking lot, where I knew for sure where I was. Mistake number two: watching the movie Deliverance the night before. For those of you who haven’t seen the movie, it’s about a group of guys that paddle a remote river in Georgia and encounter crazy backwoods people who stalk them. The experience of getting lost was that much scarier because of the movie, and it was made even more frightening when I ran past this guy standing frozen in the middle of the trail, holding a joint, staring off into space who didn’t move or say a word when I offered a hello. I finally found a different trail to run on and the next several miles passed in a painful uphill battle, then a hurling downhill battle, all whilst carefully rationing my water supply. I had the usual fantasy sequence running through my head: ice-cold water, soft serve, Italian ice, soda, beer, and so on. Let’s just say I was very grateful to finish this particular run. The bike ride home was actually really enjoyable. It was almost all downhill, so I zoomed home and made the ultimate treat: an orange cream float. Sometimes I don’t even understand why I put myself through the torture of long-distance running, but one thing is a fact: ice cream floats always make it worth it.

The look of a crazed runner
Owen’s birthday was two weekends ago, and he had military training all weekend (he’s in the CA National Guard). While I did make him a feast for dinner on his birthday, we couldn’t do much else. So, this past weekend we celebrated his birthday by going to Lassen Volcanic National Park, in northern CA. We left at the bright hour of two o’clock in the morning (Owen’s idea) and made it to the park an hour or two after the sun came up. We pulled into the visitor’s center parking lot to get our bearings and an interesting phenomenon was happening. Tons of people appeared to have slept in and on their cars in the parking lot that night. I say ‘on’ their cars because there was a car that had a doghouse looking structure on top of it with a ladder leading up to it. I wanted to climb up the ladder to wake them up, but Owen talked me out of it.

Our journey through the park that day started at a place called Sulphur Works, which was a hydrothermal area with boiling mudpots and steam vents. It was the first time I’d ever seen hydrothermal/volcanic action like that and I was frankly shocked. I didn’t even know what I was looking at until I read the signs. Certain microorganisms can survive in superheated areas, and they create crazy colors in the rock, though I think my explanation is just as informative: “It looks like a rainbow threw up!” Nothing could have prepared me for our next stop- a short hike to none other than Bumpass Hell, the aptly named largest geothermal area in the park with mudpots, bubbling pools, and steam vents. Basically, it felt like we were on an alien planet and I was so amazed I gave myself hiccups on the hike back. I overheard this British guy later in the day calling it Bumparse Hell. I didn’t think you could make that name any more awesome, but he proved me wrong. We whiled away the afternoon reserving a campsite, hiking around Manzanita Lake, and enjoying some much needed napping. We feasted on macaroni and cheese, then enjoyed s’mores around a campfire as the sun set. Our visit to the park coincided with the Dark Sky Festival, a yearly event where astronomers and park rangers host night star gazing and other sorts of events. Apparently, Lassen is one of the last so-called darkness sanctuaries, so it’s a perfect place for this kind of thing. So later that night we drove over to the parking lot for Bumpass Hell where there were tons of telescopes set up to view the moon, Saturn, Mars, and lots of other neat things. Finally, the call of sleep took over and we headed back to the campground and settled in for a long night of sleep. I woke in the middle of the night to uh, powder my nose, and the stars were SO AMAZING! The moon had finally set a bit, so it was much darker than before.

Bumpass Hell
Or should I say Bumparse Hell?
The calm waters of Manzanita Lake
I woke up a bit before Owen the next morning and lounged in the tent as our neighbor softly strummed a guitar and two deer came to snack only a few feet from our tent! It was definitely a magical moment. That morning we did a short hike to a waterfall to stretch our legs, then it was time to head back to reality. I actually drove part of the way home! My rusty manual skills came right back to me.

Kings Creek Falls

And finally, some news on the job front… I just got a part time job working in a running store! I found out yesterday, and promptly celebrated by dancing around the house banging a pan to the music. Today was my first day of work. Let's just say there were running shoes everywhere, even in the bathroom! It's kind of like my heaven. Next up, we are returning to the Motherland (NJ) for a friend's wedding and bagels on bagels on bagels... my favorite kind of adventure!



Friday, August 5, 2016

Zephyring through the West

Picture this: As you chat with the couple next to you, the train rolls through the countryside. The conductor gleefully announces to everyone to fix their eyes upon the left side of the train, as we are approaching a canyon known to have wild horses. Soon after, the first dinner shift is called, and you stroll down to the café to get a bite to eat. No, this is not something I read in a book from the 1800’s. This was my life for a day and a half as I took the Amtrak Zephyr train from California to Colorado to visit my friend Madeline. I really did feel like I was going back in time, but I also felt like I was on a cruise/safari. A cruise because there was a dining cart (that I was too poor for- $30 dinners!) and because I sat for hours staring out at the view. A safari because I saw, get ready for this, rabbits, deer, a red-tailed hawk, a bald eagle, pronghorn antelope, wild horses, and bears! This was all seen while I was in something called the Sightseer Lounge, which was a cart with almost floor to ceiling windows where I, and lots of other passengers, hung out all day. 

Sightseer Lounge
The first day we left the Bay Area and wound our way through the Sierra Nevada mountain range into the Nevada desert. I ran out of food by lunchtime, rookie mistake, and splurged on a frozen pizza and chocolate bar for dinner. As the sun set and the lounge emptied, a passenger pulled out his guitar and started jamming out to some folksy tunes. It was the most perfect, peaceful moment. After that I finally headed to my actual seat in the coach section. Now, let me clarify something. There are sleeping cars, and then there’s coach. Sleeping cars have an actual bed; coach means you’re sprawled out in the most unnatural way so that your hands and legs go numb in seats that slightly recline. Armed with my makeshift bandana turned sleeping mask, rain jacket turned blanket, and NiQuil turned sleeping pill (though I did have a real pillow), I braved it through the night and had dreams about driving a car that careened off the road, most likely because the train probably rattled around on the tracks all night.

Donner Lake, CA, seen from the train
The next day we passed through Utah canyonland into the Colorado plateau, followed the Colorado River, and finally I ended my journey at Glenwood Springs. I was actually sad to get off the train. This is why traveling by train beats traveling by plane. Have you ever gotten off the plane and said, dang, I wasn’t quite ready to leave yet? Anyway, Madeline and I reunited! She dropped me off at her apartment in Aspen and went back to work for the afternoon. I was positively ravenous after trying to spend as little money as possible on the overpriced food on the train. So naturally, I searched her house top to bottom looking for something to eat. I’m ashamed to admit her roommates’ food was perfectly fair game. After I finally satisfied my hunger I went for a short run. The nearly 8,000 foot elevation hit me like a train (see what I did there?). Later that night we stocked up on our favorite supplies-chips, cheese, and other various items, and watched some guilty pleasure shows together.

On Friday, Madeline went to work and I did my long training run. The scorching sun absolutely kicked my ass and I fantasized about ice cold water for 12 brutal miles while rationing my lukewarm water. On the upside, I found a waterfall and a beautiful place to soak my legs after that run. Needless to say, I spent the afternoon on the couch, too tired to move. We went into downtown Aspen that night and naturally, I wanted to go into a pot shop since it’s legal in Colorado, just to say I’d been in one, a quick in and out. Not quite how it went down. 20 minutes later, we were still in there waiting for the cops to show up because the guy thought my SC driver’s license was fake! The clear cover is coming off and they were absolutely certain that meant it was fake. I was pretty pissed, but all we could do was wait for the cops to come and verify it, and then I got my ‘told you so’ moment when it was cleared. Guess it’s time for me to get a CA driver’s license.

That weekend we were super active and enjoyed some of Aspen’s best outdoor treasures. Saturday we watched the sun rise over Maroon Bells (two beautiful peaks), drove out on Independence Pass and powered our way up an unnamed trail on the Continental Divide, explored a cave, and went for an afternoon hike on the trail system behind her house. The pizza, chips, and Harry Potter we splurged on that night felt well-earned.

Continental Divide trail
Found a nook in the cave!
Sunday the festivities continued with a trail run on Grizzly Creek Trail, a hike to a place called Hanging Lake, and an afternoon soak in hot springs. By Monday, we were so wiped out that we declared all we could do was sit down all day (or something like that). Perfect day for a road trip! We drove a few hours west to the Colorado National Monument, near Grand Junction. Unlike Aspen’s alpine forests, this area was all canyons and red rocks. We limited ourselves to a few short hikes but saw a lot just driving through the park. My favorite part was a U-shaped canyon that echoed back whatever you yelled out, extremely clearly. I had fun thinking of ridiculous things to say.

View on the hike up to Hanging Lake

Hanging Lake

Spouting Rock Falls

CO National Monument
The next day, unfortunately, it was time for me to catch the train back home. But not before I got in one last run. This time I finally dragged myself off the flat bike path and into the mountains, and successfully ‘chased vert,’ or chased vertical, as running hills is called by the trail running community. Later, the train ride back to CA was just as magical as the ride there. Possibly the funniest thing about the train is the tradition with rafters and campers on the Colorado River: they all moon the train as it goes by. On the way out I sat, jaw-dropped, as group after group dropped trou and shook their pale butts at us, but on the way home I felt like a seasoned veteran and casually mentioned the tradition to those sitting around me.

Back in California, I’m still adjusting to the weather here. Last week I nearly drowned in my own sweat and this week bicyclists are wearing face masks!  I blame it partly on the fact that school is already back in session. California is like some alternative universe in which August isn’t actually summer anymore. But I refuse to accept that fact. I’m looking forward to soaking up the last few weeks of summer until the real ‘cold weather’ comes, which Owen keeps insisting won’t actually come.

To conclude this week’s post, a recent exchange Owen and I had in the car, as he was showing me a feature with the sound system:

Me: “Owen, focus on driving!”

Him: “I’m not driving!”

Living the future here, one Tesla ride at a time.